How to Build Pinch Grip Strength for Climbing: A Guide with Blocks

Most climbers do hangs on a fingerboard or perform exercises on a campus board to strengthen their fingers. However, the development of a pinch grip is often overlooked. Meanwhile, this type of grip often determines the level of climbing, both in the gym and on natural terrain. In this article, we will discuss how to learn to hold pinches.

When we pinch an object, about 35 muscles are engaged. Half of them are located in the forearm, and the rest are directly in the hand and wrist. By developing a pinch grip, a climber strengthens their hands as a whole.

There are several ways to train this grip, such as hangs and pull-ups on fixed holds shaped like pinches. However, this method has a significant drawback. When holding pinches with both hands, the larger muscles of the arms and back do much of the work. We instinctively compensate for the lack of strength in the smaller wrist and forearm muscles. Naturally, in terms of developing true grip strength, this method is not the most effective.

Perhaps the best solution is isolated pinch grip training using special blocks with attached weights. Convenient sets of wooden blocks in various thicknesses are available, allowing climbers to effectively develop a pinch grip and significantly improve their climbing level.

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WHAT IS NEEDED FOR TRAINING:

A SET OF RECTANGULAR BLOCKS
LENGTH OF ROPE
WEIGHTS

HOW TO TRAIN:

1. First, you need to attach a weight to the block using the rope. It’s important to choose a weight that allows you to hold the block for about 7 seconds. This duration provides enough time to train your grip effectively.

2. Second, do three holds on each arm using blocks of one thickness. Then, repeat with blocks of another thickness. It’s best to start with the widest and thinnest blocks and finish with the medium ones, which are easier to hold. This sequence is called one set.

3. Finally, do three sets, resting for about 3 minutes between each one. This allows your muscles to recover and get ready for the next set.

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IMPORTANT:

1. Before starting the training, it’s essential to warm up your fingers properly. This prepares your muscles for the exercises and reduces the risk of injury.

2. It’s recommended to hold the block with the tips of your fingers, even if it feels easier to grip the block deeper. Holding it with the fingertips engages the small muscles in the fingers and forearms, which helps to build grip strength.

3. Using chalk (magnesium) is common among climbers to increase friction between the fingers and the block. This improves the grip and reduces the risk of slipping.

How to Build Pinch Grip Strength for Climbing: A Guide with Blocks

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